Mount Rushmore sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, is said to have spent time there, as well as famed western novelist, Zane Gray. When the cattle and oil business slowed down, the lovely structure fell onto hard times. Today, however, thanks to the vision of a Houston couple, J. P. Bryan and his wife Mary Jon, Gage Hotel is blossoming once again, this time as an inviting oasis for travelers or those simply seeking an alternative to the frenetic pace of modern life.
Bryan's career was in investment banking and oil, but his first love has always been the preservation of the art and history of Texas. This passion takes form in the abundance of fine art, local artifacts and lovely antique furniture, which give the Gage Hotel a homelike aura. Rooms in the historic hotel are a bit smaller and some have European bath accommodations, but their charm makes up for any shortage of space. The 1992 Los Portales addition, built in the native hacienda style, features larger rooms and amenities such as wood-burning kiva fireplaces, while Mesquite doors and shutters salvaged from abandoned buildings in Mexico provide a romantic ambiance not found in most modern structures. Just a step away, the vine-draped courtyard and unique cross-shaped pool provide quiet spaces to take advantage of the sunny days and warm, star-studded evenings typical of this desert retreat.
Time at the Desert Moon Spa, which offers a full line of services including a Mud Body Wrap and Hot Rock Massage, is a must during your stay, as is a visit to the hotel's state of the art fitness center. Now that daylight savings has been extended, guests will also find ample time to stroll the lush plantings of the seven and a half acre botanical garden just across the street from the hotel. Its quarter mile path winds among lovely fountains, a putting green, and carefully tended beds that provide fresh herbs and vegetables for the Gage's kitchen.
Now that Executive Chef Paul Petersen is at the helm, the food and wine selection at the hotel's Café Cenzio is second to none. Showcasing Texas-style fine dining with a classical French flare, the menu ranges from familiar dishes such as Pork Tenderloin and Black Angus to more exotic offerings, including Chicken Fried Venison or Mole Rubbed Buffalo Ribeye. The Pepper Crusted Elk Medallions, served with potato gratin and truffled mushrooms demi is especially superb. To finish off the perfect evening, unwind at The White Buffalo Bar, which definitely serves the best Margarita in West Texas.
Looking for the unusual? Visit the small shops along Marathon's main street. Artesanias carries original Talavaera and other Mexican and Honduran imports, while a wonderful selection of books, art and photography with a strong regional emphasis can be found at Front Street Books, Chisos Gallery and Evans Gallery.
Eve's Garden Organic Bed and Breakfast, tucked away on a side street just behind the Gage Hotel, certainly qualifies as one of the most delightful discoveries in the area. The brilliantly colored exterior and its multi-domed roof only hint at the wonders to be found inside. Owners Kate Thayer and Clyde Curry have made a commitment to an ecologically sound lifestyle that is reflected in every facet of their business.
Although the building blocks used in its construction resemble adobe, they are actually papercrete, a unique blend of newsprint and cement. Built hacienda style, the main house and five guest rooms open onto to a large central garden. The indoor lap pool, filled by a wall-long waterfall, links the main house to a verdant garden overflowing with flowers and vegetables of every variety.
As Curry and Thayer introduce guests to their surroundings they explain that their place is a "hope center" whose purpose is to demonstrate some solutions for our planetary environmental concerns. During their stay, guests are encouraged to wander paths lined with geraniums, roses, bougainvillea and a variety of vegetables such as squash, tomatoes and fragrant herbs. An arty ceramic serpent embedded with mirrors and pottery shards, gives this sun cloth shaded sanctuary an ambiance, which bears a striking resemblance to the descriptions of the proverbial Garden of Eden. For a final taste of "paradise," breakfast guests savor such delectable treats as pancakes with fresh fruit syrup, vegetable frittatas or mushroom and red pepper quiche. Soon to be discovered, bookings at Eve's Garden have tripled since it opened in 2002, and its guest book already boasts comments in 10 different languages including Mandarin, Japanese, Yiddish and Dutch.
Using Marathon as a base, there are also a variety of one-day destinations to tantalize your imagination. It is 71 miles up Highways 90 and 118 to The McDonald Observatory, home of the Hobby-Eberly Telescope (world’s third largest optical). Daily tours and nighttime "star parties" are available. On your return visit, you can tour Fort Davis National Historic Site. In use during the Indian Wars period of 1870-80, this beautiful setting was home to troops from the famous Buffalo Soldier units. Fully restored buildings, including the Officers' Quarters and the Enlisted Men's Barracks, provide fascinating insights into life on the frontier. Marfa, known for its amazing "Marfa Lights," is just 60 miles to the west on Highway 90. Visit the Historic El Paisano Hotel where Liz Taylor and James Dean stayed during the filming of the movie "Giant" and sample the unique art experience of the Chinati Foundation.
March, April and October are the high volume travel months, but Marathon's 4,000 foot elevation and low humidity make it a pleasant place to visit year round. This spring should be especially beautiful. Due to above average winter moisture Gage's General Manager, Wilma Schindeler, predicts the countryside around Marathon should be blanketed with color once the wild flowers begin to bloom in late March.
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